I'm not so sure I agree completely -- you won't catch me outside in extended downpours (although I have been accidentally caught in a few), dangerously high winds, and temps below 30 -- but I am proud to say that living in Portland has made me much more of a winter weather rider. I've learned that 6 months of the year is a long time to spend on the trainer, so this year I decided to learn how to tackle...and even enjoy winter weather in the Pacific Northwest.
I can't speak to riding in heavy snow (perhaps we'll have to interview a few of our A2 athletes who can!), but here's a bit of what I've learned during my trials and errors:
Layering is Key:
The key to staying warm during winter rides is effective layering. Start with a good moisture-wicking base layer to keep sweat away from your skin. When it's really cold, I'll make the base layer either a wool or sport-tec thermal, but I often just use one of my running base layers to save some money on gear.
Add an insulating layer (or two) for warmth and finish with a windproof and waterproof outer layer to protect against the elements. Remember, it's better to have too many layers that you can adjust as needed rather than not enough.
Example of what I often wear in rain in the 40s: long sleeve running base layer top, thermal bibs (rain pants with lighter bibs if I'm expecting consistent rain), Rapha thermal long sleeve jersey (one of the warmest layers I own), rain shell or jacket, buff on the neck, buff on the ears, neoprene gloves, wool socks (tucked into bibs for rain coverage), neoprene shoe covers
Windproof and Waterproof Gear:
Good winter gear can sometimes feel like it costs an arm and a leg. That being said, I've learned that investing in good gear will make a huge difference in enjoying your ride. I have been lucky enough to find some of my favorite Rapha, Showers Pass, Giordana and Pearl Izumi gear on sale or sold secondhand through online marketplaces or friends. (Note: there are so many more other fantastic brands, these are just the brands I know and use.)
One thing not to skimp on: hand and head coverage. Cold hands can quickly turn an enjoyable ride into an uncomfortable one. Invest in windproof and waterproof gloves to protect your hands from the biting winter chill and potential rain or snow. Consider gloves with touchscreen compatibility, allowing you to use your smartphone without exposing your fingers. Once I upgraded to a neoprene-like layer on my hands, my rides in the cold Portland rain became easy.
For head coverage, consider wearing a thermal cycling cap under your helmet (the brim can help in rain) or a stretchy headband to keep the ears warm.
Cycling Tights or Leg Warmers:
Keep your legs warm with cycling tights or removable leg warmers designed for cold weather. Look for options with thermal insulation and/or wind resistance to provide maximum comfort during winter rides. If I know my ride may have fairly consistent rain, I will sometimes throw on a pair of rain pants (I use pants from Shower's Pass) and go for a lighter bib underneath.
Footwear:
Shoe covers, shoe covers, shoe covers! And yes, there are practically covers for every temperature. During most of the winter, I use thermal and waterproof shoe covers and am toasty warm! Back when I lived in DC and it rained far less in the winter, I skipped the waterproof addition. Even in the spring and fall when temps may be a bit warmer or it may be a bit less rainy, I'll still often use at least toe covers on cold days or during cold triathlons (the toe covers can sit on the shoe while it's clipped onto the pedal if you do flying mounts!).
I will never go out for a cold ride without shoe covers now - it's made that much of a difference.
Lights and Reflective Gear:
Winter days are shorter, and riding in low light conditions is common. Ensure your bike is equipped with bright front and rear lights to enhance visibility. Wear reflective clothing or accessories to make yourself more noticeable to other road users. When riding at night, I've started attaching a reflective band to my legs after seeing one catch my eye while I was driving once. The up and down movement was easy to spot and let me know that a cyclist was ahead long before I could see the rest of them.
Fenders:
At least in Portland, winter riding means wet and muddy conditions. Fenders help to keep water, mud, and slush from splattering onto you and the riders around you. Especially if you plan to go on group rides, having fenders is the polite move -- nobody wants to be stuck drinking your wheel water (and you definitely won't make friends that way).
When looking for fenders, make sure you know which types of brakes you're using and how they mount on the bike -- there are many varieties out there depending on what you need!
Get out there and ride!
Riding bikes in the winter can be a fantastic experience with the right gear. By investing in quality winter cycling gear, you can stay warm, comfortable, and safe while enjoying the beauty of winter landscapes. So, layer up, gear up, and embrace the cold weather on your two-wheeled adventures. Happy winter cycling!
]]>Triathlons demand peak physical performance, and one crucial aspect of success is proper nutrition. Among the three disciplines—swimming, cycling, and running—cycling presents a unique opportunity to refuel and sustain energy levels. In this blog post, we'll delve into the best ways to eat and store food on the bike during a triathlon.
Choose the Right Nutrition:
Before exploring storage solutions, you have to decide what to eat. Opt for easily digestible, energy-dense foods such as energy gels, chews, bars, and sports drinks. These options provide a quick energy boost and are fairly easy to carry. Remember that different products can react differently for each person -- always try out nutrition in practice before using it in a race so you avoid any awful GI issues.
Megan's favorite nutrition brands: Maurten (everything they have), Untapped Maple, Skratch and whole foods such as fig bars and potatoes
AJ's favorite nutrition brand: Gu
If you're looking for something to fill you up a bit more, such as when you're racing a full-day race like an IRONMAN triathlon, you may want to consider adding some real or "whole" foods to your lineup. Some triathlete favorites include peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and fig bars. Because these foods can be harder to digest, it's best to keep these for lower intensity days. And as always, practice, practice, practice.
Hydration is Key:
It doesn't matter how much you eat if you aren't drinking enough. Staying hydrated is critical. For most race efforts, consider mixing electrolyte tablets with your water to replenish essential minerals lost through sweating. Like food this is always best to test BEFORE race day.
For tri bikes, consider adding a front hydration unit to your aero bars to allow you to stay aero - even get more aero in some cases - and access hydration at all times. We particularly like the the Vision Metron Front Hydration System (taller with integrated mount) or the Profile Design BTA FC25 (longer with attachment space for computer). These front mounts can also be refilled during long races, but it will require you to sit up and squeeze a bottle into the hydration system, so make sure to practice that skill ahead of time!
If you're looking for bottle cages and bottles, that are the most aero as possible, we highly recommend the XLAB Aero TT System with a carbon cage and 20 oz bottle capacity. This being said, sometimes aero bottles can be harder to handle and you may need a larger bottle for your nutrition needs, making prioritizing hydration more important than aero gains. Unfortunately we can't answer this question for you in a blog - you have to decide for yourself!
Strategic Timing:
Plan your nutrition intake strategically. Space out your consumption to avoid overloading your stomach. For longer races, target regular intervals, such as every 15-30 minutes (depending on what you're eating/what distance you're racing/etc.) to maintain a steady flow of energy throughout the race. For shorter races, this may not matter as much (or you may not be eating at all during the race!).
Top Tube Bags: These small, aerodynamic bags fit on the top tube of your bike, providing easy access to nutrition without compromising your aerodynamics. They are perfect for storing gels, chews, snacks, salt tabs and more.
Many of us race with the XLAB Stealth Pocket, which actually screws into the top tube of the SP to hold it in place and avoid any annoying velcro sizing/cutting/overlap. It may look small, but during Kona this year, Megan fit three Maurten gels and two Maurten chews (cut up) in this bag!
For full-distance races such as IRONMAN, you may get a chance to replenish food halfway through the bike leg, but it also slows you down. If you can hold carry as much with you and pick up nutrition at aid stations (most races will publish what they have at aid stations in advance) then you could potentially save MINUTES in the long run.
Takeaways
Successfully navigating the bike leg of a triathlon requires careful consideration of both nutrition and storage. By selecting the right kind of food, planning your intake strategically, and investing in effective storage solutions, you can ensure that your energy levels remain optimal throughout the race. Practice your nutrition plan during training, and come race day, you'll be well-equipped to conquer the race with confidence.
]]>From @zar1232 on Instagram: "Why does road bike geometry seem to accommodate more people than tri bike geometry?"
Fantastic question. Road bike, triathlon bike, gravel bike, mountain bike...the list feels like it can go on and on. All bikes have their own purpose (bike handling, aerodynamics, adaptability, etc.) and specific geometry and features to meet this purpose, but what it really comes down to is what "purpose" is most comfortable for your body.
Today, we're breaking down the main differences between the two bikes that A2 has (as of 2023) and the "why" behind it.
In general, road bikes are made to handle sharper climbs, descents, and corners while triathlon bikes are designed in all ways to be wind-slicing machines.
Road bikes have a higher rider profile than tri bikes, with a shallow seat tube angle and a seat that is set a bit farther back in relation to the pedals. Road bike handlebars also tend to be higher up than triathlon bars (although this can depend on riders and their flexibility) and feature three main hand positions - center/tops, which is ideal for climbing and opens up the rib cage, hoods, the most common riding position over the top ends of the bars near the shifters, and drops, the bottom curve of the bars and best for getting aero and descending.
While this positioning may be higher up and "in the wind" compared to triathlon bikes -- we'll get to that geometry soon -- it matters much less in road bike scenarios, as draft-legal or pack racing largely counters the aerodynamic disadvantages of road bikes compared to triathlon bikes. Plus with road bike geometry, you have the added benefit of being more agile, comfortable, and have the ability to generate more bursts of power on more types of terrain.
This is why we often recommend road bikes to new cyclists or riders who may be less flexible. The bike will be more versatile and allowed in all situations, plus the more upright positioning will feel a bit kinder to necks, shoulders, lower backs and hips.
In comparison to road bikes, triathlon bikes are focused on aerodynamics. And for this blog post, we are just focusing on triathlon bikes - not time trial bikes, which have to follow UCI rules and are typically made for shorter events (1 hour time trials versus 5+ hour full distance triathlons). For a deep dive into the differences between these bikes, we recommend watching this video from GTN.
So back to tri bikes, which is what the A2 SP falls under: tri bikes have a steeper seat tube and a seat that often sits nearly above the pedals, rotating the hips and decreasing load on quads and hamstrings, which we then use a ton in the run!
The handlebars feature aero bars that rise from a low base bar, allowing athletes to get low and stretch out on the bike compared to in a road position. While "stretching" may sound like a nice position, this flat back position may be more challenging for many to hold for long durations depending on their back, hip and shoulder flexibility. Even for many pros, it may take some time in the beginning of the season to train their body to be able to hold such an aerodynamically aggressive position.
Another important thing to note: brakes are only on the base bars, and require a much larger hand shift compared to road bikes. This is one of the reasons (among others in aero bar handling) why tri bikes are often not allowed in group riding and are banned from draft-legal racing.
Finally, triathlon bikes will always be a stiffer ride than endurance road (or really most road) frames, especially because of the frame's wider profile, This doesn't necessarily change much in the fit, but if you prefer a more nimble ride or comfortable ride, then an endurance road frame may be your best bet.
In short, while aero bars and seat position can be adjusted for the rider, the most aerodynamic fit in triathlon bikes can be less comfortable for some riders and may be limited by personal body mobility.
Thank you to @zar1232 for sending in this awesome question! If you have a bike question that you'd like to ask the A2 shop, send us a message on Instagram or on our website, and we'll get it answered.
]]>Why is this? A lot of it has to do with static weight versus rotating weight. Static weight includes all the things that stay "still" on your bike -- the frame, hydration, storage, etc.. Rotational weight is anything that you have to rotate to move forward -- like wheels. To save you the physics lesson (and shorten this blog quite considerably), the summary is that the energy used to move this rotational weight forward is greater than the energy used to move the same amount of static weight. Read a bit about the physics behind this from The University of Illinois.
In short, bike frame weight matters less when wheel weight is lessened. This is why upgraded wheels will be one of your best options when looking to up your game.
Unfortunately, it's not always a straightforward answer. What do the different depths mean? Do I need a disc to be competitive in triathlon? How much does weight matter?
First, let's break down some of the terminology:
Wheel Depth - Deep section wheels refers to how far the rim extends towards the center of the wheel (or length). For example, the Vision Metron 81 SL (below, left) is an 81mm depth while the Vision Team 30 wheels (below, right) have a 30mm depth.
Disc Wheel - A disc wheel is often the go-to rear wheel in triathlon (when allowed - IRONMAN Kona does not allow this wheel). This is a wheel that is a solid "fill" without the hole through the center of the wheel (pictured below). In the right wind conditions (or wind "yaw angle"), a disc will absolutely crush other wheels' performance.
Carbon Fiber - Carbon Fiber (or just "carbon") is a material that is incredibly strong and stiff but also incredibly light, which makes it an ideal material for bikes and wheels. Upgrading to carbon frames, wheels and components will lighten your ride and give an advantage over aluminum, steel and other materials.
Wheelset WIDTH - How often do you double check the width of your wheels' rims? For most road cyclists, probably never. Running 25s-28s (tire width) is fairly standard now, and road wheels will handle that perfectly fine. But the wider the outer rim, the larger you can inflate your tire (wider rim widths are typically seen on carbon wheels).
Note: wider inner rim width that you see on modern carbon rims increases the air volume of your tire, which allows you to decrease the pressure and increase ride comfort.
When this really comes into play is when you want to go off road and a wider tire will give you more surface area to work with and a more comfortable ride. When the new Rogue All Road bike gets sent to your doorstep, it'll arrive with Vision Team 30 wheels and 700x28 tires. However, we found that riding with Zipp 303s not only added an aero advantage and less weight, but most importantly, the wider rim increased air volume of our 35 mm tires which gave us the ride quality of a wider tire (closer to a 40mm feel) (pictured with tan wall Gravel King tires).
In short, the deeper the wheel, the more aerodynamic it will be. This especially matters in time trial efforts where draft dynamics don't exist and it's the rider vs the wind/air.
But like we mentioned above, it's not as simple as just putting the deepest wheels on your bike and riding a disc at every race. Here are a few caveats:
Want to learn more specifically about disc wheels? We highly recommend checking out Cody Beals's blog on when you should ride a disc and the difference between disc wheels and disc covers.
And as always, tire choice is going to make a huge difference in ride feel and roll resistance. It's VERY worth the extra investment to choose a good tire -- a poor tire could negate most of the upgrades that you just got with the new wheels.
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How do the pros prep and race? A2 Professional Matt Morabito breaks down his race day bike setup for IRONMAN Lake Placid 2023 in Episode 2 of "My Race Day Setup."
Components: 12-speed R9200 DURA-ACE
Gearing: 52-36 front & 11-30 cassette, which allowed Morabito to more easily spin up the Lake Placid climbs
Handlebars: Profile Designs WING/20C basebar with 43 ASC extensions
Bar Tape: Yes, you heard that insider tip correctly - hockey tape! Morabito prefers a very thin tape, and it works well when it's wet.
Saddle: PRO Aero Fuel
Brakes: TRP Spyre SLC Mechanical Disc, which Morabito chose for easy maintenance when travelling as it's (easier maintenance for travel)
Rotors: Shimano XTR
Wheels: 90mm depth with a disc in the back for Lake Placid. When he's not racing with a disc, he also has a 90 in the back to swap in.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix 5000 TT TR
When racing at the professional level, the course is often less congested (note - often but not always guaranteed). As such, Morabito opts to race with fuel given at IRONMAN aid stations including Gatorade Endurance and Maurten Gels.
Potentially the biggest advantage to this change when the competition gets upped? No middle cages. Less weight, more aero. Instead, Morabito races with the XLAB Torpedo System to keep any hydration that he might need on his bike.
Follow Morabito at @tri.junkie
]]>Bike handling is king whether you're a roadie, triathlete or general bike enthusiast. It prepares you for different road surfaces such as torn up asphalt, cobblestones, unexpected gravel, grass and more, and it will come in handy the next time someone makes a weird move in a group ride and you have to respond quickly!
If you're a draft-legal cyclist, you're probably more used to skills-specific training sessions practicing clipping and unclipping, mounting and dismounting, sharp corners and more, but often times triathletes tend to spend more time on the cardio and less on the bike handling (we understand - there's only so many hours in the day!).
The offseason then is the PERFECT time to start building these skills for the next season. So how do you start? One of our favorite fall cycling activities in Portland is here again and we couldn't be more excited...cyclocross!
Cyclocross or "cx" is a type of bike racing where riders ride off road and over a series of obstacles -- anything from barriers, stairs, ramps, mud and sand pits, rivers, mulch hills, and anything really a race director wants to throw in! The courses are often winding and up and down punchy hills, and riders have to be ready for all kinds of conditions. In Portland, the rainy season brings mud, wet courses and a great excuse to get dirty.
Before jumping into your first cx race, there are a few skills you should practice first. We recommend starting on flat pedals so you don't have the added stress of clipping in and out while you're practicing so many new movements!
Mount and Dismount - this is probably the most important skill to know as you'll be getting on and off your bike MANY times in a race. For those who do flying mounts and dismounts in triathlon, it's not too different -- swing one leg over your bike, set it behind you (we've seen in front too...to each their own), twist the foot that's still on the pedal to unclip (or ignore this if you're on flat pedals), step down and run! In triathlon, you take off your shoe but keep it on for cx!
Mounts are where it gets fun. While you're running next to the bike, you hop over the bike (many use the seat on the thigh as a guide to roll onto the saddle) and get moving while the bike is in motion. It may take a bit of practice to get a smooth flying mount without stutter stepping or landing awkwardly on the saddle (yes, we've all been there), but practice makes perfect!
Note from a triathlete: I personally dismount and mount on different sides for triathlon. As we're only getting on and off the bike once in a triathlon, it doesn't really matter. For cx, I had to learn to mount and dismount on the same side to keep barriers efficient and safe for everyone around me as well. Something to think about!
If you need a visual of mounts and dismounts, check out this video from GCN.
Sharp Turns - most of these courses are tight with sharp turns and will require you to have your wits about you. If you've never ridden like this before, consider heading to your local park and setting up a course with cones on grass -- practice taking tight corners slowly at first until you can build up speed and figure out the best lines and how the riding surface feels. And yes -- surface matters. Cornering around sand will feel different than mud, which will feel different than gravel, which will feel different than grass, which will all feel very different from road if that's all you're used to.
Lifting your Bike - excuse me? Lifting the bike? What could be so complicated about that? It's all fun and games until you get a pedal in the back, a bottle cage in the shoulder, or you hurt your back wrenching a bike from the top tube rather than throwing it over your shoulder.
These races are so short you won't need water - taking the bottle cages off will give you a smooth and open area to rest over your body like the man pictured above. Lifting the bike onto the back gives you more space to run and transfers the weight of the bike from your lower back and arms (if you were to just lift the wheels) to the shoulders which can hold and balance much more. Once you get the hang of this move, you're off to the races!
Skills Practice - If you want some help with these skills or expert advice, check out your local racing scene to see if anyone is offering clinics. In Portland, we're incredibly lucky to have such a supportive race scene, and there are a number of beginner-focused clinics to sharpen your skills before race day!
One of our favorite FREE clinics in Portland is held at Trophy Cup every Tuesday from Sept 12 to Oct 17 at 5:45 pm. Find more info here!
Looking for weekend racing in Portland, check out Cyclocross Crusade AND their super helpful "New to Cyclocross?" page which breaks down the racing, rules, gear and more!
This time between summer race seasons is a great time to try something new. It keeps you refreshed and helps you maintain fitness and improve skills as you take a break from the grind of everyday training (unless fall/winter is your main season!).
Don't be surprised if you see a few of us from A2 racing at the local cx races in the coming weeks. But on which bike? We'll be ready to reveal that very soon...
Stay tuned...
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Pictured above (photo from SRAM) is the SRAM app, which lets you check batteries, adjust indexing and more -- even when you're without service (which I sometimes am on more backcountry Oregon roads!). Learn more at https://www.sram.com/en/sram/road/collections/etap-axs
Flying with a bike will probably be one of the most challenging parts of your trip (just being honest here!). I always try to get to a race a few days before race day for "just in cases" -- just in case your bike gets lost or delayed, just in case your bike gets damaged, just in case ______ (insert any stress situation here). It may not be possible for everyone as it does add to accommodation needs, but I've found that in the few times I've flown to a race, it's decreased my anxiety a TON.
Depending on the type of case you have -- my soft Scicon case can fit my full frame and aero bars -- you may have to partly disassemble your bike to pack it. The pieces that you often will have to remove include the pedals, saddle, handlebars, derailleur and wheels. If you don't learn anything else from this post, just remember this: mark your fit/measurements with tape or markers before taking it all apart. You'll thank yourself later when you aren't "guessing" your setup in the hotel before the race.
When packing up your bike, pack it as though your bike will get tossed and piled below other luggage. The reality is...it probably will. Packing cushion is key. I often wrap my frame with bubble wrap and fill the bag in with extra clothing (just make sure it stays under the weight limit!). If you can remove your derailleur, I highly recommend it (or at least shift it down and cover it with a cage if your case comes with that extra protection).
I also tie a PVC pipe across my handlebars to help reinforce them if something heavy gets tossed onto my bag. I started doing this after seeing numerous friends show up to races with cracked and bent handlebars.
That CO2 cartridge that you JUST purchased? Leave it at home. TSA isn't a huge fan of compressed gas canisters in the air.
Another one that people might not think about is power meters -- if you have a pedal-based power meter and it uses a battery, there's a good chance it's lithium, and lithium shouldn't be checked on planes. According to US FAA guidelines (and most guidelines around the world), lithium batteries should ONLY be in carry-on bags.
How long are you travelling? What will the weather be like? Is there nutrition that you need to carry with you? Is there nutrition that you can buy at the race location? How many water bottles do you need? There's a lot to think about when packing what feels like your life into a small suitcase. Here are some tricks I've picked up through the years:
1. Like I mentioned above, your bike bag IS a checked bag! I'll add my cycling shoes and running shoes in the bag (also wrapped up) and put them between the fork for a bit of extra reinforcement. As long as your bag isn't overweight, you're allowed to pack more than just a bike in a bike bag!
2. Race day needs get packed in your carry-on bag. This is so important that perhaps it should be listed first. Checked bags can get lost or delayed, and it would be awful if you had to miss a race just because your gear was held up at the airport.
3. Nutrition - do you have nutrition that can't be purchased in a store at the race site? Make sure it's travelling with you. However, if it's something that can be found in a lot of stores (ex: whole foods like pb&j, Nuun, Gu, etc.), consider purchasing it at your final destination to save space in your bag.
Oh and that while hydration powder you're thinking about packing in a non-descript plastic bag? Consider labelling or just keeping it in the bag. File "unidentified white power" under "things TSA doesn't love." It'll just save time and questions.
4. Make a list. And then cross off the objects ONLY after you've placed them INSIDE your bag. Not in the room, not next to the bag...inside the bag. As I'm sure you can guess, I have experienced the heartbreak of leaving contact lenses NEXT TO my bag.
Competing outside of your home base can be a great opportunity to try new courses, meet new people and race against new competition. However, when you have to pack up and travel to a new location, it can also add new stress to the process. Plan ahead, plan often and accept that at the end of the day, something will go wrong. All you can do is prepare and enjoy the (plane) ride.
Are there any tips or tricks that you've picked up that I missed? Send me an email at megan@a2bikes.com or message us on social media!
Looking for a packing list? Stay tuned...that's coming next!
]]>We asked some of our A2 athletes what topics they wanted to learn more about, and today we’re tackling the question - “What the heck is the right tire pressure to run on the road?”
Tire pressure – measured in “psi” or pounds per square inch – is one of the most important factors to consider when preparing your bike for the road.
The correct tire pressure can increase your speed (by decreasing rolling resistance), provide better traction and control, reduce the risk of punctures or blowouts, and provide a more comfortable ride on different surfaces and weather conditions.
Too low? You risk pinch flats and slow times. Too high? You probably won’t have much fun bouncing over road bumps and could be a slicker ride in the rain. So what’s the best pressure for you? We break down why this changes person-to-person, depending on the weather, and which tires you’re running.
One thing to note: tire pressure is also incredibly important for off-road riding. For this blog, we’ll just be focusing on situations you may experience on road tires.
Several factors can affect the correct tire pressure for your bike. These include:
Determining the correct tire pressure depends both on the manufacturer of the tire and the changing factors that we mentioned above.
The general rule of thumb is to inflate your tires to the recommended pressure range printed on the sidewall of the tire and then adjust from there. The manufacturer will list a minimum psi – so that you aren’t risking rim damage or pesky pinch flats – and maximum psi, and then it’s up to you to do a bit of experimenting to figure out where your optimal pressure falls in this range.
And don’t forget to check your tire pressure before EVERY ride.
Choosing the correct tire pressure can greatly improve your cycling experience. By inflating your tires to the recommended range and adjusting based on your experience and current conditions, you can ensure a smooth and efficient ride during your next ride or race.
Triathlete Magazine Names the SP in Their Top Triathlon Bikes of 2022
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BEST TRIATHLON BIKES CATEGORY | RATING |
Overall Rating | ★★★ |
Fit Range | ★★★ |
Value | ★★★★★ |
Comfort | ★★★★ |
Acceleration Stiffness | ★★★ |
Handling Tightness | ★★★ |
Stability | ★★ |
Ease of Assembly | ★★★★ |
Best Distance | All distances |
A2 Bikes began with a mission to cut out the middleman and connect triathletes (almost) directly with bike manufacturers overseas. At the time it was pretty revolutionary thinking: direct sales. But now, there are many brands skipping the bike shop, and even a few—like A2—who go low marketing, low overhead in an effort to cut costs to the very bottom. A2’s first bike, the Speed Phreak, was a result of this, and as such it was a fine bike—albeit a little raw in terms of handling, stability, and fit flexibility. The good news with the new SP1.x line is that A2 has fixed most of those issues and kept the price in check.
The result with the SP1.2 is a hydraulic disc brake-equipped bike, with decent components for under $4k. In terms of ride, it’s a much smoother bike than the first iteration with much better adjustability—particularly when you consider this setup technically falls in the superbike category. However, when it comes to ride stability, we struggled with handling, as the frame seemed to wander slightly during our testing. It’s possible that this was a one-off on an early model, but it was present.
Feature wise, the bike has some serious aero pedigree, as the new frame was designed by former Cervelo engineer Kevin Quan and his team—the same group responsible for the head-turning Diamondback Andean. It also features frame bosses for water bottles in the frame, nutrition on the top tube, and a first—Bontrager SpeedBox-compatible bosses on the rear of the seat tube.
]]>We received the following question recently from an Instagram user: “How long will a heavily used carbon frame last?” The gist of the question revolved around what happens to a bike once it's no longer usable. Does it just go to the landfill?
Sending stuff to the landfill is a valid concern in 2020. Landfills pollute our soil and water, emit greenhouse gases like CO2 and methane, spread disease through rats, flies and mosquitoes, and disrupt wildlife by destroying their habitat. Anything we can do as individuals to prevent sending items to the landfill is commendable. Some of these solutions include composting, forgoing plastic, elimination of single use items, recycling, and upcycling. But what about carbon bike frames?
Carbon is a relatively new material - the first usable carbon fibre frame bikes were released in the mid-1980s. With this in mind, it’s understandable to think that an aluminum or steel frame bicycle, a frame material that has been used for centuries, would be stronger than a carbon fiber bicycle. But that’s just not the case.
In reality, as long as a carbon fiber bike is taken care of - no big crashes and don’t go at it with a hammer - theoretically it can last forever. Steel and aluminum, on the other hand, are frame materials that will fatigue and at some point, no longer be safe. Carbon is stable indefinitely (that’s a long time).
So, from a longevity point of view, carbon holds up versus steel or aluminum frame bicycles.
What If I Crack My Carbon Frame?
Mistakes happen, accidents happen, and unfortunately, they happen to your bike frame as well. A crack in a carbon bike frame can be serious as it jeopardizes the integrity of the material. But, with the popularity of carbon frame bikes increasing over the years, there are many carbon repair shops available to get your steed back to tip top shape.
We reached out to Drew Wilson, owner of Cyclocarbon, to get an expert’s take on carbon’s lifespan and durability.
Cycling enthusiasts and triathletes are likely to have many bikes during their lifetime, and while some let them pile up in their garage, many decide to part ways with that old bike they’re not riding anymore. Here are a few suggestions with what to do with your bike once you’re done with it:
Being out on two wheels gives you the opportunity to witness and be part of nature, traveling slow enough to appreciate the views, hearing birds and seeing deer, and breathing in the fresh air that the trees and plants made for us, all powered by our own strength, not fossil fuels with those nasty emissions.
Cycling and environmentalism go hand in hand for so many reasons. A huge part of being Earth-friendly is considering the entire lifecycle of the items you use. A bike should be no different. But here’s the good news - the bike is a durable item. Our landfills are not full of old bicycles and we should keep it that way.
As our culture becomes more eco-conscious, we’ll likely see products in the bicycle industry that help us be more Earth-friendly and move us towards a circular economy and away from the take-make-waste cycle that we’re currently in.
At A-Squared Bikes, we’re here to help you get the most out of our bikes, and our Buy Back program helps move the bikes on to other people and keep them out of the landfill.
Thank you to Drew Wilson of Cyclocarbon in SE Rochester, MN for his contribution to this blog post. You can find his work on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/cyclocarbon and Instagram @cyclocarbon.
A-Squared is excited to announce our newest addition to the family, the Road Phreak! Sleek design, cutting edge aero technology, sick paint job - everything you’ve come to expect from the Speed Phreak has now been passed down to our first road bike. N+1 now officially equals RP.
The Road Phreak, better known as the RP, features all internal cable routing for a clean and aerodynamic design. Matched with a fully integrated handlebar design, you will be cutting through the air with ease. Whether in your next road race, or out for a training ride, this is the weapon of choice. Further, the RP comes standard with disc brakes, boldly moving A-Squared into the cutting edge of braking technology.
A-Squared was founded with accessibility and affordability in mind, and the RP continues that tradition with the RP1 outfitted with SRAM Rival components and starting at $2000 (or $125/mo with affirm). The RP1 may be our entry-level road bike but certainly doesn’t have an entry-level feel. A feather-light carbon frame combined with Vision Team 30 clincher wheels will have you zipping up mountains and popping off the front of group rides in no time.
If you're looking for ultimate speed and weight savings, the RP3e will be your weapon of choice. This is our top-of-the-line road bike, and takes all the elements of the RP2e but upgrades your components to SRAM RED AXS eTap. The lightest and highest performance electronic groupset on earth. The RP3e starts at $4,999 or $174/mo with affirm.
All of our bikes are sold direct-to-consumer via our website at www.a2bikes.com. See the RP here.
A2 (pronounced "A-Squared") was founded by AJ Alley, a newbie triathlete in search of an affordable tri bike. When he couldn't find one, he asked the same question all triathletes ask at some point: Why are tri bikes so expensive?
To get the answer, he started investigating -- first, by calling bike shops, then by reaching out to manufacturers. When he couldn't get a satisfactory answer, he went straight to the source -- Taiwan, where many carbon bike frames are manufactured. While touring factories and discussing the future of cycling with industry leaders, one thing was clear: Triathlon bikes don't have to cost so much.
By working closely with the top names of the triathlon industry, including Shimano, FSA, and Vision Tech USA, Alley was able to design a high-quality carbon-fiber triathlon bike at a low price point. The A2 Speed Phreak has taken the triathlon world by storm, gaining the respect of unconventional triathletes everywhere. In 2020, Triathlete.com wrote:
“This budget direct-to-consumer complete bike is a great jumping off point for beginners and intermediate triathletes.”
In October 2020, A-Squared partnered with Affirm, a leader in providing consumer options for purchasing now and paying over time.
With Affirm, we’re able to offer our base model of Speed Phreak starting at $120 a month with favorable payment terms of 6, 12, 18, or 36 months (36 months is available for price points over $3,000).
If you’re ready to get your bike now and pay over time, surf our store and click on the product you’re interested in. On the product page, you’ll see text below the price that says: “Starting at $xx/mo with Affirm. Prequalify now”. Click on the “Prequalify now” text to get a quick look at your financing options, and start the prequalification process.
You can also start the Affirm prequalification process at checkout. Simply add the bike to your cart, go through the checkout process by entering your information, choosing your shipping option, and then on the Payment page, choose “affirm Pay over time”.
We’re excited to offer the Affirm low monthly payment option to our “unreasonable triathletes” as it gets you on our bikes faster, and breaks down that price barrier that’s all too common in the sport of triathlon. Whether you’re a broke student or an amateur triathlete balancing work, family, AND triathlon expenses, we’re confident that A-Squared Bikes is bringing you a top quality bike without breaking the bank. Partnering with Affirm takes that promise to another level.
]]>Is there anything better than new bike day? Whether you’ve picked up your new whip at your local bike shop or it’s arrived on your doorstep, the first thing you want to do is get out there and ride. It’s like Santa brought you that new bike for Christmas!
But hold up there! While the wheels may roll and the pedals may turn, it’s not a good idea to go out and ride a few dozen miles.
A proper bike fit is essential for new and experienced riders alike. Not only do you want to be efficient and produce power, even more important is comfort. If you’re not comfortable on your new bike, those miles are never going to happen.
Not having the right bike fit can also lead to overuse injuries, a painful saddle, and just a bad time on the bike.
And while you may be able to tweak a standard commuter or road bike to make it work, a triathlon bike, which has a unique cockpit setup to attain that super aerodynamic position, is harder to adjust yourself.
We’re here to take you through the basics, and then point you in the right direction to make sure your new Speed Phreak triathlon bike is exactly what you need to win races and knock out personal bests.
There are some elements of a bicycle fit you can do yourself. It’s likely you’ll have to address these while you’re testing bikes before making a purchase.
Getting the right size bike frame is essential. If you are stuck with a bike frame that’s too big or too small, there’s no amount of adjusting on the seat post, crank arm, or handlebars that’s going to make it work.
Your LBS can help you determine the right frame size depending on brand (each bike brand is a little different). A-Squared will help you figure out your frame size on the product page, or you can contact us with questions. We’ll ask for your height and inseam, and what size you ride in other brands to help narrow down whether you need a XS, S, M, or L frame.
The height of your saddle is key to comfort and injury prevention. You don’t want your knees up near your chest, but you don’t want to be reaching for your pedals on every stroke either.
A simple way to get close yourself is to line up your crank arm vertically. With your foot on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, if you can't reach it, lower the seat a bit. If your knee is bent, raise the seat post a bit.
The reach to your handlebars is also essential for overall comfort, but especially important for bike handling. You should feel no pain when you reach for your handlebars, and you should be able to rest your hands comfortably on the base bars/bullhorns of your triathlon bike. When sitting up on your base bars, your elbows should be slightly bent, not locked out.
When affixing the cleat on your bike shoes, first place them where you think the ball of your foot will be. Tighten the cleats down so they don’t move, and then do a quick test spin. If the position feels good, tighten the bolts down, or adjust until you find a comfortable position.
Once you’ve found the magic spot, you can outline your cleats with a silver permanent marker so you’ll know exactly where to place the cleats when it’s time to replace them. You’ll likely replace your cleats more often than you’ll replace your shoes.
Getting a professional fit for your new triathlon bike is incredibly important, especially for a new A-Squared Speed Phreak. The Speed Phreak doesn’t mess around - we’ve brought you an aggressive frame setup so you can get aero and take that pro or age group win.
Finding the perfect aero position and staying in it is all about being efficient and comfortable, and that comes with the fine tuning only a professional bike fitter can provide.
Getting aero isn’t just about slamming the stem and staying tucked. Many elements come into play including the length and position of the aero bars, the location of the elbow pads, the height of the seat tube, and even your hydration setup.
Getting as low and tucked as you possibly can may work on the trainer for a bit, but keep in mind that you’ll be racing in that position for 20 to 100+ miles. If your position is so aggressive that you have to sit up on your base bars often, you’ve completely lost the advantage of having that aggressive setup.
The perfect aero position is the one that you can hold comfortably for hours. As you develop as an athlete, your fitness and musculature will change so your bike fit will change as well. Increased strength and flexibility will allow you to ride in a more aero position so don’t be dismayed if you don’t look like Jan Frodeno yet. It’ll come.
While the focus for TT bike fits tends to be the aero position, an efficient pedal stroke is just as important to get you through those long miles with max power and reduced risk of injury. This is where the tools of the trade and the eye of an experienced bike fitter really come into play.
Efficient pedal stroke is maximized through finding the ideal hip angle and crank length. Hip angle is hard to determine on your own, without the tools available to those who practice Precision Fit, Retul, Guru, or Shimano bike fits. Bike fitters using these systems have sensors that determine the best angles for you, and make adjustments accordingly.
The crank arm length is also important, and it may be surprising to learn that longer isn’t always better. It’s quite common to use a shorter crank arm length on a triathlon bike than a road bike. Discuss this with your LBS, bike fitter, or with A-Squared before ordering your Speed Phreak so we can make sure we send you exactly what you need.
Now that we’ve established the need for a professional bike fit, where should you get one? There are a few options. First, you can reach out to us at A2 and we can give you a basic "fit".
Or, check with your local bike shop. They are a great resource for all things bike related and will likely have a preferred bike fitter they use. Ask your cycling friends, especially the fast ones!
You can also search online for bike fitters in your area, and do some research into the different types of bike fits listed below.
You’ve made the investment in your bike. Now it’s time to make the investment in yourself to get the most out of your bike. Remember, a proper bike fit will allow you to ride harder, longer, and faster with fewer injuries. The wrong bike fit leads to pain, injury, and no fun on the bike.
]]>Now that you’ve bought your Speed Phreak, you’re probably anxiously awaiting that big, beautiful box to arrive on your doorstep. In the meantime, here’s what you can expect.
99% of Speed Phreak orders leave the warehouse within 24 hours of payment, and usually arrive within 5-7 business days of your order date. We will notify you by email with tracking information when your order ships, and you can use the tracking link to follow your Speed Phreak during delivery.
The Speed Phreak comes boxed and 98% assembled. As with all packages, be sure to check everything in the box to make sure nothing was damaged during shipping. Contact us immediately at info@a2bikes.com if you think your bike was damaged during shipping.
Assembly is required before riding your bike. You’ll need to attach the stem, front wheel, handlebars, and seat post. The good news is that the Speed Phreak comes pre-cabled.
We’ve created this video to walk you through the assembly process and the tools you’ll need.
If you are not comfortable and competent with a bike wrench, we recommend taking it to your local bike shop for assembly or use our partners velofix!
Once your Speed Phreak is assembled, it’s a good idea to take it for a test spin, but really, just a spin. Make sure the wheels are tracking, the brakes are working, and the gears are shifting. Just a trip around the block should do.
The next step is essential, especially for a triathlon bike - get a professional bike fit. You will be spending hours on your bike training and racing. You want to be comfortable but also aerodynamic (why else would you ride a TT/triathlon bike?), and eyeballing it isn’t going to get you there.
There are a few options for a professional bike fit. Check with your local bike shop and local riders to see if there is someone they use or recommend. Reach out to our partners at velofix - many offer bike fits. Seek out a bike fitter trained in one of the popular bike fit modalities like Retül, Precision Fit, Guru, or Shimano.
Whichever option you choose, remember that a proper bike fit allows you to ride longer, harder, and faster while remaining as comfortable as possible. The wrong fit can lead to overuse injuries, saddle sores, and just a bad time on the bike. Find out more about why a proper bike fit is important here.
Your Speed Phreak is all tuned up, ready to go, and fit to your exact needs. Now it’s time to go out there and crush it! Those KOMs/QOMs, course records, and personal records don’t stand a chance with A-Squared on your side. We love sharing stories from our A-Team (that’s you) so be sure to tag us on social media (Facebook: A-Squared Bikes, IG: @a2.bikes) so we can celebrate your successes with you.
Whether you're doing your first triathlon or going for that world championships slot, the A-Squared Speed Phreak will get you from T1 to T2 as fast as possible without breaking the bank.
If for any reason the Speed Phreak is not right for you, you have 30 days to return it. It is okay if you have already built the bike and taken it for a test ride. In fact, we expect that. All returns are subject to inspection for damage and excessive use.
]]>Why? We know what it’s like as a beginner triathlete or even a cost-sensitive triathlete (we call ourselves “unreasonable” triathletes). We want the best bike that our money can buy, and aren't willing or aren't able to buy a $15,000 bike!
That’s understandable - and that’s exactly why A-Squared Bikes was founded. Our mission is to design the best triathlon bikes for the best price. Our bikes are designed to get you aerodynamic and deliver you from T1 to T2 in the fastest time possible. Our focus is on value, and on breaking down the price barriers preventing people from joining our sport.
The SP1.1 is a great entry level Triathlon bike and tempered with out and out performance and aero gains. It may be considered an entry-level Triathlon Bike because of the mixed-shimano 105 groupset. Our base level setup starts with Shimano 105, with upgrade options like Shimano Ultegra. We use Vision TriMax alloy base bars with an upgrade option to Vision's Si013 Carbon Aero Bars. All of the Tri Bikes discussed here come equipped with disc brakes, as most modern Triathlon bikes do.
All modern triathlon bikes require the utmost in storage capacity on frame, the SP, and PRFOUR both have rear tool storage capabilities while the Speedmax has rubber tool storage by the water bottles on the frame.
Ultimately, the biggest differences between these bikes come down to price. The Canyon Speedmax CF7 Disc comes in at a base price of $3,799. The QR PRFOUR Disc base price is $3,429. While the SP1.1's base price is only $2,800, almost a full $1,000 less than the Speedmax. These savings add up even more with our high end builds. See the full spec comparison below.
Frame | Quintana Roo PRFOUR | Canyon Speedmax CF 7.0 | A-Squared Speed Phreak |
Brakes | TRP Spyre (DISC) | SRAM Paceline HRD | TRP Spyre |
Crank | Shimano 105 | Shimano 105 | FSA Omega EXO |
Derailleurs | Shimano 105 | Shimano 105 | Shimano 105 |
Cassette | Shimano 105 | Shimano 105 | Shimano 105 |
Aero Bars | Profile Design Wing 10A with 35A Extensions | Profile Design Subsonic Race | Vision TriMax |
Wheel | Shimano RS170 | Reynolds AR58 | Vision Team 30 |
Saddle | ISM PR 2.0 | Fizik Mistica | Velo |
PRICE | $3,249 | $3,799 | $2,800 |
So what’s the big distinguishing factor between these 3 entry-level triathlon bikes?
By far, the biggest difference in these three tri bikes is the price. Both the Canyon Speedmax CF 7.0 Disc and the Quintana Roo PRFOUR as spec'd cost more then $3,200 . The A-Squared Speed Phreak starts at $2,800.
Triathlon is already an expensive sport. Our race entries cost hundreds of dollars with the added expense of traveling. Our gear can rack up thousands - a bike, shoes, helmet, wetsuit, race kit, etc. Along with the required training, triathlon can be a tough sport to get started in. We understand that, and work with athletes to discover what bike is best for their lifestyle, budget, and desires.
At A2, we want to help athletes enter and grow within the sport of Triathlon, we do this by introducing an entry level bike that has true value - the highest quality at an affordable price.
But our relationship with our athletes (we like to call them the A-Team) doesn’t stop with the bike sale. We pride ourselves on our industry leading Customer Support, and we’ve included upgrade options so that we can grow alongside you in your triathlon journey, from your first race to your first podium to your World Championship qualification!
So which bike will you choose? The PRFOUR Disc, Speedmax CF 7.0 Disc, or the always fast, always affordable SP?
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If the goal is to make every minute count in a triathlon, then wheel choice is an important consideration. Choosing a race wheel can feel a bit overwhelming. There are many brands, different rim depths, the choice between clincher or tubular and different sizes of wheels. For the purpose of this blog, I will focus on choosing a type of wheel, based on the rider, and whether to choose a clincher or tubular.
First let’s talk about the rear wheel. The fastest wheel hands down, is the disc wheel. Unless you’re going straight up hill for an entire race, the disc wheel will always win. However, if you’re not comfortable or experienced with riding in the wind then this wheel might prove a challenge. Because of the disc wheel's increased surface area, bike handling is negatively effected in wind, especially for lighter or less experienced athletes. This can cause an athlete to burn up too much energy fighting the wind, which, in turn, can completely negate any potential time savings that were accrued due to the disc wheel! That energy is needed for the run! So, if a disc wheel is not an option, your best bet is going with the deepest rim you can find and are comfortable riding. The front wheel is going to be the most difficult to handle in the wind, so especially focus on your comfort with the depth of the rim up front. A lot of athletes will run a smaller rim up front and deeper rim in the rear for this reason.
Now on to clinchers or tubulars. Which to choose? Tubulars are going to be lighter than clinchers, but not as aerodynamic as wide rim clinchers. Studies have proven that the time savings due to the clincher's aerodynamics are greater then any time savings due to the lightness of the tubular. Therefore, I always recommend clinchers due to their aerodynamics advantages.
In summary, choose a disc wheel for the rear wheel and the largest rim you feel comfortable with for the front clincher, ideally. If you don’t feel comfortable riding this, then choose the next deepest rim you feel comfortable riding. Keep it simple.
--David MacMillian, Superfly Triathlon Coach
coachdavidmac.wixsite.com/blog
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